Hurricane season brought colossal waves, with surfers Luke Johnson and Ben Gravy seizing the opportunity to ride the powerful swells generated by Hurricanes Erin and Fernand. From the shores of Nantucket to the quest to surf every named storm, these athletes embraced the raw energy of the ocean.
Riding the Rage of Hurricane Erin
Luke Johnson described his experience surfing Hurricane Erin’s swell on Nantucket as "super special" and "angry." He noted the raw, alive feeling of the ocean, a stark contrast to previous hurricane swells. Johnson emphasized the unique camaraderie of surfing with lifelong friends during these extreme conditions. A significant development for Nantucket surfing was the use of personal watercraft (PWC) for safety, a feature Johnson utilized firsthand when his leash snapped during a massive wave. His prior PWC training in Ireland proved invaluable, allowing him to be quickly and safely returned to the water via jet ski.
Ben Gravy’s Quest Continues
Meanwhile, Ben Gravy continued his ambitious goal of surfing every named storm of the year. Following his exploits with Hurricane Erin, Gravy was already out tackling the swells from Tropical Storm Fernand. Despite the fatigue from back-to-back storm chasing, Gravy was committed to maintaining his streak, even opting for a soft-top board to catch the waist-high peaks of Fernand. His dedication highlights a unique approach to engaging with the annual hurricane season.
Hurricane Erin’s Widespread Impact
Hurricane Erin’s influence extended far beyond individual surf sessions. The storm generated historic surf and caused significant coastal erosion along the U.S. East Coast, from Puerto Rico to Maine. Natural shorelines and restored dunes proved more resilient than those protected by coastal armoring. In Puerto Rico, Erin’s large surf led to tragic loss of life and highlighted the vulnerability of poorly planned coastal development. Similarly, the Outer Banks of North Carolina experienced beach overtopping and road closures, though areas with restored dunes fared better. Long Beach Island, New Jersey, and Montauk, New York, also saw significant surf, with dune restoration efforts playing a crucial role in mitigating damage. Even New England and New Hampshire experienced epic, albeit challenging, surf conditions, underscoring the broad reach of Erin’s power.
Sources
- Luke Johnson Shares What It Was Like To Surf…, Nantucket Current.
- Ben Gravy’s on a Quest to Surf Every Named Storm This Year, the Latest Was Fernand, The Inertia.
- Epic Surf and Shifting Coasts: Hurricane Erin Coverage, Surfrider Foundation.
- Gearoid McDaid Gives Another Look at Mullaghmore During Hurricane Erin Swell, The Inertia.
