Getting to this spot was half the fun. An unusual surf spot, which required precise planning and local knowledge to get there. A journey through an intense network of baked roads, until finally a few (potted) plants could be seen. This area is tucked deep within a foreign civilization and if you ever come here, keep your head low, and don’t make a scene.
Making it to the hidden, secret spot without much knowledge of the local language, I felt threatened, uneasy and vulnerable.
The second the jet ski slipped out of view and vanished, that was it. The umbilical cord was cut, water: it’s just me and you, baby. Are you ready?
Dark clouds formed as soon as I stood tall, fast water rushing under my feet, with my toes as my clutch; any minor tweaks at this stage would send me flying into the deep unknown.
My facial muscles tense up harder than during my morning poop and I’m battling, at war with this wave. This perfect, consistent, fast wave.
The wake my board leaves behind cuts the wave into sections, I’m painting lines, picking shapes, going goofy on this bad boy wave which wants to eat me. Not to mention those two sharks below me. Gnarly dudes, you’re going to have to wait for your dinners; oh look, there’s a kook way over there, go, shoe!
With every twist and turn, I felt the wave’s energy beneath me, a living force that could both inspire awe and strike fear into the bravest of surfers. I danced on the edge of danger, riding the line between mastery and chaos.
With every twist and turn, I was determined to show this wave who the real boss was. I yelled out to the wave, “You think you can mess with me, Poseidon?” The wave didn’t respond, which I took as a sign of its respect for my obvious aquatic prowess.
Suddenly an applause and a shout. “It’s over bro; time’s up!”
PEEEP! My hour at Honna Surf Club in Madrid was over—ride of my life. My coach told me I was good, and I know he says that to everyone, including shark bait above, but wow I’m blushing!
I’ll be honest, Madrid was not on my surf map, considering they are miles away from the coast here, but Kai Lenny, step aside bro!
Yeeeew
